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Q:
What are the basics of tuning?
When
tightening your heads, go about a quarter turn at a time, moving around the lugs
clockwise to tighten, and counter-clockwise to loosen after playing. Keep
a close eye on evenness, especially at the beginning, watching to ensure that
the lugs are evenly tightened. If you turn the drum upright and place it on a
very flat surface, you will be able to tell if one or more lugs are uneven.
Tighten the drum up gradually, but rather than listening for a particular pitch,
go for a feel. Use your ears; listen carefully and critically. The macho
(male, or smaller) head will start to have a "pop" to it at one point, it sings,
the tone seems to emerge effortlessly with a touch.
(Note: Use caution if you're not sure. Heads are like strings, they will break
if stretched to hard.) The hembra [female
large - head] is approximately a forth
below the macho, perhaps not quite as tight. Long ago, before metal tuning lugs,
when the heads were tacked on, the drums were played looser, but nowadays, as a
solo instrument in a big amplified band, the pitch is much higher to increase
projection and volume.
Q:
Should I de-tune after I play?
A: It is ideal to tune your (natural skin) bongos up before playing them, and down again when you're finished. If you don't de-tune in hot weather then the heads may tighten so much that they will split. Many of us have learned this the hard way - though it's usually the macho head (small) rather than the hembra.
Q:
Should I put anything [oil] on the heads?
Yes,
if the head is dry. If the head is dry, then you can put a bit (about a
quarter sized portion) of almond oil or any good lotion with lanolin in the palm
of your hand, then rub your hands together, and rub the lotion or oil into the
drum heads. You can do this as often as the heads feel dry, to keep the leather
supple, and not brittle.
Q:
I have those little bongos with the tacked on heads. How do I tune them?
A:
The original bongo drums were like this. You can put them in front of an
oven or an open fire, taking care not to put them so close that they burn.
Players of old also used that canned heat or other heat source, or put the drums
in the sun when possible. If you should want the drums tuned a little lower, wet
your hands, and rub the moisture gently into the heads until you reach the
desired looseness. These tuning techniques will also work with most other fixed
tension (real skin) drums, such as tambourines, tars, etc.
Q:
Are synthetic heads any good?
A:
Yes. They can be very effective. They respond quickly, which makes
them relatively easy to play. Synthetics don't have the The best
rawhide heads have a little more warmth and richness, but synthetic heads, like
NuSkyn, SkynDeep and Fiberskyn by Remo have very good tone quality.
Synthetic heads tend to maintain their tuning even with changes of temperature
and humidity. They also require less maintenance than rawhide heads.
Some pros like Karl and Raul of Santana use Remo heads because of the extra
projection and durability. On one hands, it is nice to have heads
are mostly impervious to the
weather, but it's also nice to have the richness and warmth of high quality
rawhide.
Q: What about using X-ray film for the macho head? I've heard they all do it in
Cuba.
A:
Yes, they do work well and give crisp slaps.
A kind visitor from
Cologne, Germany writes: "It works very well and saves lot of money, no need to
change the pitch (as
high as possible is the best). As with the natural skins, two persons are the
best to get them on. Then slowly tune up in small steps around, and listen to
the sounds from the head. When I experimented with it, I found out, that a small
spot from double gaffer-tape (about 2.5 cm) stuck in the middle from the
underside, makes the sound a little shorter (dry) and remains of a very strong
high pitched skin."